All of the Greek Islands are charming, but Lipsi is unique in its attempt to become the greenest island in the Mediterranean, with a goal to eliminate all carbon emissions. It will do so by converting to hydrogen, solar, and wind energy sources rather than reliance upon oil and gas. All vehicles used on the island will be electrically powered by these clean energy sources. The island also has plans to build a desalination plant to sustain the entire island’s water needs. Many sustainable buildings, including an eco-village, are already underway. In the words of a local on Lipsi, this is a wonderful project that will take time to complete.

There are many reasons why Lipsi is capable of going completely green. One is the island’s small size and population; the other is the locals’ adherence to primitive practices. Walking the few streets of Lipsi, one will notice grazing goats wearing loud bells around their neck, small vineyards where grapes are still stomped by human feet, and families who produce enough cheese daily to make a living. Everyone on the island has a specialty, gives a little, and gets something in return. Enough to live by and little more. This old trading policy, which is still practiced in many wonderful places, allows people to live with less influence of money.

Walking two miles from one side of the island to the other, one hears rooster calls, bells in the distance, and waves rolling to shore. The pace of life is slow, work tough but simple, with many tiny cups of coffee downed over conversation throughout the day. Many are in the field growing greens or tending to citrus trees, some baking bread, and others bottling homemade wine which they will bring to a friendly supper sitting.

I was lucky enough to wander through Lipsi for Easter and was invited to the humming Greek Orthodox Church. Mass was held every day during the week proceeding Easter, and all were there. I learned that when entering church one ought to give a small donation, light a candle, kiss the saint paintings lining the wall, and join the mesmerizing hymn spoken by the priest at the alter. On Easter Sunday everyone feasts, the meal revolves around the goat, spun and sizzled over the fire for hours in preparation. Greeks dance, boister, and certainly are merry.

The goat slaughtered for Easter Sunday roamed the hills of Lipsi, likely for the entirety of its lifetime. Farmers on the island mark their livestock, but allow them to range and graze freely as they would in the wild. They are not brought into pens unless specifically needed for use, like Easter dinner. This is just another sustainable, primitive practice Greeks use to live a clean and simple life on Lipsi.

Along the ocean near the center of town are two fabulous restaurants, The Rock and The Bakery. The Rock serves ouzo mixed with water on ice, a licorice drink, as well as endless plates ranging from squid to hummus. Greeks love to share, so I was always treated to a wonderful evening on the ocean-side balcony. The Bakery offers a multitude of delicacies, from ice cream to chocolates and baklava.

The island of Lipsi is a secret splash of green in the Mediterranean, where you can swim in olives grown the way they should be.

Soon after your arrival in El Nido you will notice that there are 4 pre-set tours that are available for you to explore the islands.  All tours begin and end in El Nido and are standardized across all tour companies.  There are numberous tour operators that will be competing for your business although each tour operator will provide the same 4 tours with a similar itinerary and price.  You will have a hard time negotiating a lower price but it can be done if you work hard and have enough people to make it worthwhile for the boat driver.

The 4 tours are simply labeled A, B, C, and D.  Each tour has its own pre-defined itinerary and will include lunch and snorkeling…and sometimes even rum and live music.  Tours A and C tend to be the most popular and each tour takes about a full day but you’ll be back before the sun goes down.  Here’s the breakdown:

Tour Information:

Tour A:  Miniloc Island, Small Lagoon, Big Lagoon, Secret Lagoon, Simizu Island, Entulala Island and Seven Commando

Tour B:  Snake Island, Pinabuyutan Island, Lagen Island, Cudugnun Cave and Cathedral Cave

Tour C:  Matinloc Island, Tapiutan Island, Secret Beach, Tres Marias Island, Cagbantang Cove and Star Beach

Tour D:  Cadlao Island, Pasandigan Beach, Nat Nat Beach, Bucal Beach and Paradise Beach

If you want to avoid the standard tour routes you can always hire a private guide to take you to some lesser traveled islands.  However this could end up costing you more money if you are traveling alone or with a small group.  One of the benifits of the standard tours is that they are affordable and provide the solo traveler the opportunity to meet other backpackers.

That’s about it for the hard facts.  So have fun, explore and don’t drink too much Tanduay!…at $2 a bottle, it’s very tempting

Big cities in the world that I fell in love with at first sight: San Francisco, New York, London, Paris…and, of course, Rome.

Le Citta’ Preferite?

When it comes to Italian cities, I’m definitely a “Roma” and not a “Firenze”.  I don’t know why but I never completely warmed up to Florence.  Maybe it’s too sedate and refined for my tastes.  I happen to prefer the frantic pace of Rome, the juxtaposition of the uber old and ultra modern, the messiness and energy.  It’s my kind of town – full of passion and gulfs.  When I posed the question, “Rome or Florence?” to my friend Igor, (born in Helsinki but a resident of Italy for 22 years), he put it to me this way, “Rome!  I like big cities.  In Rome you can find different people, cultures and groups.  It’s an Italian melting pot – an Italy of multi-cultures.  You can have a sense of an Italian life.”

This week I ventured out of central Italy and headed north to Milan and Turin to see how the “upper-half” of Italy lives.

Milan (Milano):

Ten years ago I was in Milano, but circumstances weren’t optimal.  It was Ferragosto (August 15 – an Italian holiday when the entire population seems to head to the shore).  On this particular date the city turns into a bona fide ghost town; for all intents and purposes Milano was closed for business which left me with an unsatisfied, disappointing taste in my mouth.   In contrast, this time around I found the city completely engaging and captivating.  Milano is super-vibrant yet understated, organized and business-minded; she hums along very efficiently.  The men are tall and handsome, the women are elegant and lanky.  In this financial and fashion center everyone is wheeling and dealing while enjoying their aperitivi  – a Milano pre-dinner tradition of stuzzichini, (buffet of appetizers).

Turin (Torino):

If Milano is the financial center of Italy, Torino is the manufacturing one.  Fiat, Lancia and Alfa Romeo are headquartered here, but the city is also known as much for its art as it is for its automobiles; there are museums galore!

Because Torino was Italy’s first capital and home to the House of Savoy (Ducato di Savoia) – its royal family – these pretty streets evoke Paris and the palazzi (palaces), Versailles.  Baroque and Rococo buildings are everywhere emphasizing the strong French influence, which also becomes apparent in the regional cuisine of Piemonte.  Here in the north of Italy they use a lot of butter in their sauces.  Yeah!

City Love:

Preferences…we all have them and they are as varied as people can be.  What floats my boat may not float yours.  We have reasons for our choices based on our unique histories and involvements, yet it often comes down to the inexplicable and esoteric.  I suppose you could say “we like what we like”, so when a city speaks to us, we should listen.

Italy is a massively diverse and culturally rich country that one cannot possibly see and experience in one lifetime – but believe me, I intend to try!  From the edge of the Alps, the coastline of the Riviera, the canals of Venice, the beaches along the Adriatic, the rolling hills of the middle to the warm islands in the south, Italy must be explored to the hilt.  So, get a move on and discover it for yourself.  Which Italian city speaks to you and why?

Stepping off the plane in August 2011, the first thing I notice is the décor. Everything is ‘island-inspired’. A lot of wood carvings, floral patterns, wicker or wicker-like furniture. I immediately sense a healthy amount of Island Pride. As I make my way through the airport, which is enclosed in some areas and open to the elements in others, the warmth of the weather seems to gently engulf you and invitingly infiltrates your senses-Aloha!. It feels very tropical!

After collecting my luggage, I find my way out and taxi towards my hotel in Waikiki.

Interesting Facts:

There was (and still is) a LOT I didn’t know about Hawaii. Here is a miscellaneous list (I find these things quite humorous as well as interesting) outlining what I have learned so far:

• Muumuus originated in Hawaii:  Hawaiian’s are quite proud of their heritage and therefore Muumuu’s are a definite must-have. On the islands (as opposed to on the Mainland), the muumuu designs touted around town are quite pleasing to the eye. Most are adorned with a variation of Hawaiian and island inspired designs in all colors. The Polynesian-style muumuu being more colorful while the Hawaiian designs slightly conservative in color and pattern.
• Casual Friday’s originated in Hawaii:  In the 1930’s, a Chinese merchant created the Aloha shirt. Later, in 1945,Hawaii instituted Aloha Week. According to Wikipedia: “The Honolulu Chamber of Commerce funded a study of aloha shirts and designs for comfortable business clothing worn during the hot Hawaiian summers.”  Aloha Week began in April and lasted through to October. Aloha Fridays took root in the 1960’s and the custom spread across the mainland starting inCalifornia and spreading Eastward. Aloha Friday eventually evolved into Casual Friday. However – InHawaii – most men wear the traditional Hawaiian shirt for everyday business and on Friday’s, women more freely tout their muumuus to work.
• Hawaiians Love Spam!  Spam is a major staple in this state. Wikipedia also reports that the Hawaiian population is one of the top 3 areas in the United States that consume the most Spam per capita. Burger King serves Spam on the menu inHawaii and Spam Masubis are to die for (I eat these almost every day!)
• Living the Aloha Culture:  The Aloha culture is difficult to describe: In a nutshell, people are nice and courteous, but nothing is done in a hurry. Aloha means affection, love, peace, compassion and mercy. Try doing all those things at once but on your own time and in your own way with every task on you’re to do list and maybe we are somewhere close to how things get done here. The Aloha lifestyle is very laid-back and in direct contrast to our mainland hustle and bustle of time tables, deadlines and assertive-in-your-face day-to-day behavior. Aloha is the reason why most of us are drawn to the islands. Aloha and vacation truly go hand-in-hand. 
• Diversity!  On my first trip to Hawaii, I definitely noticed the cultural make-up of the population. I expected it to be different but initially dismissed the profound number of Asians and expected more Hawaiians. Anytime you venture out of California, diversity is less prevalent; However, here I found myself on the other side of the spectrum. By day 3 – I had an epiphany: I look like I belong here! The island is 58% Asian or of Asian descent or mix. (I am Korean and Caucasian mix). According to About.com: “Hawaii is clearly the most racially integrated state in the United States. It is also the only state where whites are not the majority but rather only a third of the population.”
• Dog the Bounty Hunter:  His office is on the island (Oahu) at 1381 Queen Emma Street in downtown Honolulu. Feel free to drive by or walk by and take pictures. Many of the tour companies on the island take their patrons by the office and point it out as they drive by.
• President Obama:  President Barack Obama grew up on Oahu. There is a travel website (Franko’s Guide Map to Obama’s Oahu) dedicated solely to everything on the island and its significance with relation to Barack Obama.
• Pirates of the Caribbean - The Black Pearl:  The Black Pearl calls Oahu home (for the time being). Upon some of the islands boat tours and cruises, the Black Pearl can be sighted on the North side of the island. A Pirates of the Caribbean movie or two back, some of the filming was done right here in Oahu. I heard that sometime in the future, it will be moved to down south (in the Caribbean?) in preparation for the next sequel. This is total hearsay so don’t quote me on that.
  
• Lost:  The TV Show – Lost was filmed on the island of Oahu. One can visit all the filming locations during an 8-hour tour. Daniel Dae Kim who played Jin on the TV show now solely lives on the island. You may run into him!
• Hawaii Five-0:  Hawaii Five -0 the original and the new version (TV Show) are all filmed on theIslands. Hawaiians are very proud of this fact. Recommendation: It would do a visitor good to watch a few episodes before your trip. You will be asked if you have seen the show.
• Movie: The Descendents:  The story-line for The Descendents (I watched this movie) takes place in Oahu. And since I have been working here the past 4 months – the movie was a trip to watch because what would have been unfamiliar to me (culture, island scenery and overall décor) were now very familiar and relevant. I would recommend watching the movie and taking note of these things before visiting the islands to simply add more relevance to your experience. Pretty good movie too. (definitely a Red Box movie though – not very action packed).
• Banyan Trees!  I am no botanist but I can’t write an article about Oahu and not mention this tree. I noticed it immediately because it truly stands out. These guys grow up like any other beginning as a nut to a sprout to eventually a full fledged tree – but then something unique and awesome happens. Long tendrils start growing down from the branches to the ground and then rooting. It is almost like forming another tree, but it is all still the same tree! (I saw somewhere that Banyans originated in India) On Maui, there is a large one that spans about 12 trunks and covers approximately 2/3 of an acre. (Reminds me of the tree on Avatar).
• Birds of a feather:  There are tons of exotic birds living freely on the islands. Beautiful birds flying all over the place. Parrots, finches, waxbills can be encountered while eating, walking or laying out in the sun. (Seriously, on the mainland, I have only encountered finches in pet stores, here – I find them in meadows, parks and along the sidewalk as I stroll on in to work). I love nature and being able to see birds living happily amongst us just lifts my heart. So precious.

Side note: Also – outside ofWaikiki – all over the island, there are free range chickens. What do you mean? You ask? Literally: chickens walk freely inOahu’s local neighborhoods! I think it is awesome. Just saying.

Back to my new adventure aka Operation Hawaii: Being new to the island, I was excited to kick start all the things on my bucket list. As expected, there are the standard things most of us think about when planning a trip to Hawaii: Beaches, Resorts, and Luaus etc. Here are my experiences, observations and recommendations:

Waikiki:

On the island of Oahu,Waikiki is the spot where most tourists hang out. Shopping is a major component of the Waikiki experience. All of the designer stores are here as well as a number of popular places to eat. One can spend an entire visit centered in and around Waikiki and feel thoroughly vacationed.

Beware the Time Share!

They are ALL over the place! Every corner of Waikiki is inundated with activity booths. Most will advertise reduced rates for a select number of activities from chartering boats, sailing, snorkeling and the like – all in exchange for a few hours sitting through a Time Share presentation. If you are up for that sort of thing and would like to take the opportunity to save some money – go for it. If not – then here are a few tips to find deals:

• Through out Waikiki, one can find brochures that include coupons for some of the same activities. Grab as many as you can and then read through them. Make sure you compare pricing across brochures and advertisements. When calling, see if you can talk them down a bit. I was told the Luau was $95 at full price but was able to get it at $65 once I did enough research.
• See if your hotel has packages that are part of your stay
• Sometimes contacting the activity directly (as opposed to through an activity dealer) can gain you savings as well.

International Market Place:

The International Market Place is located centrally in Waikiki. Just ask around and people will point you in the right direction OR you will eventually stumble upon it the more you explore. You can’t miss it. It is like a permanent flea market littered with booth upon booth of island ware. T-shirt shops, island-inspired jewelry, Wooden Tiki statues are just some of the treasures that can be found here. Shop away!

Dining:

• Top of Waikiki: Located inWaikiki. Food was decent. The novelty of the experience was nice but nothing to brag about. I suspect at some point in the past – this restaurant might have been ‘the place to be’ however, now – it seems to be more of a ‘has-been’ location to eat.
• Sarento’s at the Top of the Ilikai – Fine Italian dining. The Fondue was awesome! It is best to put in a reservation. The food was about an 8 out of 10. The atmosphere and experience is more the reason to eat here. The Ilikai is located towards the end of the Waikiki strip (KalaKaua Ave.) towards downtown.
• Ono’s: For you Foodie’s out there, Ono’s is for you. Authentic Hawaiian food is what is on the menu. This is a hole-in-the-wall spot that deserves to be raved. Patrons are asked to wait outside until a table is open for sitting inside. About 10-15 tables total make up the small restaurant without much room beyond that to move around. Auntie will gesture you in and seat you without much more than a nod and a smile. The menu is simple and the food comes fast. I recommend trying one of the combination plates and tasting everything. I thoroughly enjoyed eating here and will take all who visit to this spot to truly experience Hawaii.
• Leanard’s: Another ‘inside’ spot for you folks that want to venture off the beaten path: Leanard’s is a local hot spot. Malasada Puffs are the signature item here. And although I have been trying to watch my calorie count lately, they were worth a whirl. Kind of like a donut with filling, these tasty treats cost me my allocated calories for dinner – oh well….I will trade the experience any day over a full stomach.
• Kaew’s Thai Villa: For some good food while on the island, I would highly recommend Kaew’s Thai Villa. The menu touts authentic Thai food and the over-all quality of the food stands out over the other Thai food restaurants on the island.
• Puka Dog: For fly by eating, i.e. grabbing a bite while site seeing or shopping, Puka Dog is quick, tasty and definitely a Hawaiian experience. To eat here – you must read the instructions. Located on Kuhio street (parallel to KalaKaua Ave), after you place your order, expect a short wait time for them to toast your bun. While waiting, take some pictures with tropical birds! The Bird Guy is behind the Puka Dog store.

Activities:

• Diamond Head: A popular tourist destination, a Diamond Head hike can replace your planned work-out for the day. For those of us who are not as fit as we would like, this hike is not too strenuous but still a good workout. About 30-40 minutes total to make it to the top and there is no cost. Recommendation: If you want to make a day of it, you might want to pack a lunch. Sometimes – there is a lunch truck parked near the beginning of the trail but the selection is limited. Also – be sure to bring or buy water to stay hydrated.
• Makani Catamaran: I highly recommend the Makani. I do this only because this is the company I tried first and I like them a lot. A Co-Worker actually recommended them to me and every experience has been absolutely top notch. I have taken the afternoon Sun ‘n Fun package a few times and I tried the Morning Breakfast Cruise once with my Niece (I lost my hat and we got pretty wet!) and plan on trying out the Friday Night Fireworks trip sometime soon. Recommendation: Don’t wear a hat – it can get windy and the wind is faster than your hands. Also – the trip provides a few snacks and some drinks – however – should you desire eating something not on their menu – it is perfectly fine to bring your own food.
• Germaine’s Luau:  Germaine’s Lluau is awesome. Wait – what is a luau? Here is the definition: a feast of Hawaiian food –according to the free dictionary website. I hear there are about 3 main luau companies on Oahu and I also hear that Germaine’s is the best. I have gone 3 times so far and have enjoyed it every time. You can sign up for a tour or you can drive yourself to the location on the other side of the island (from Waikiki). Recommendation: The full experience though is taking the tour bus. Upon arrival at the luau, photographers will take a photo of you and your party on the beach so be sure to doll up a little for the memories. And then expect to be thoroughly entertained by the traditional Hawaiian and Polynesian dancing, (here is where you find hot island men and women!) Your luau photos cost $20 each so be sure to bring some cash.
• Dolphin Quest:  Swimming with dolphins accomplished a major milestone in my life. I absolutely LOVE dolphins (along with elephants, lions,Bengal tigers, gorillas, McCaws, Cockatoos, and horses) so swimming with them, touching them let alone kissing them had me on cloud 9. I was having lunch at the Kahala Resort (I highly recommend eating Sunday Brunch here too, a little expensive but the food is to die for) and after our meal, we began exploring the premises. I turn a corner and fall in love with the dolphins swimming in the lagoon. What I like about Dolphin Quest is that the staff seem to take very good care of their dolphins. These guys are not over booked, they take care to make sure the dolphin’s lives are filled with fun and excitement and that their experiences are different from day-to-day. I was told that the dolphins are asked to play with us and that if they chose, they could opt out of interacting. I like and support that approach one hundred percent. I signed up on the spot and about $225 later that same day I was in the lagoon with Hoku (one of the dolphins) and his friends. We kissed, I hugged him, I brushed his teeth and then we raced and he splashed me with water. It was a perfect date! I cannot rave more about it. I think everyone has to do this at least once in their life.

A few other activities to note:

• Ala Moana Mall: Standard mall. Quite large. Great shopping and includes a few nice restaurants as well.
• Parasailing
• Snorkeling
• Surfing
• Mopeds
• Bicycles
• Paddle Boarding
• Canoeing

Beaches:

There are many beaches all over each one of the Hawaiian islands. Here are descriptions of the few that I have been to and recommend:

• Ko’Olina:  Located on the NorthShore– this is where you want to go if the weather is not ideal in Waikiki. The NorthShore tends to be dryer than the rest of the island. Less populated, this area is sprinkled with a few high-end resorts and gorgeous beaches. Ko Olina’s beaches are lagoon-like in structure, look and feel. The lagoon layout removes large ocean waves out of the equation for a low-key day of tanning and fun in the sun on calmer waters. Bathrooms and a small convenient store is available within walking distance. There are no activity booths here leaving your time with the sun and the water more private and intimate.
• Lani Kai:  My favorite beach so far-Lani Kai. This beach is on the wind-ward side of the island. The sand is fine and soft and the look and feel is tropical, private and local. This beach is off the beaten path so there aren’t very many tourists. Houses sit right on the beach which give it an at home feel. While people walk their dogs and others canoe out to one of the two islands off in the distance, homeowners might be bar-b-queuing in their yards right behind the public beach area. The main part of the beach invites patrons to park and utilize the beach, the park and the bathroom facilities. Yet – some may prefer parking in the neighborhood area and venturing through one of the paths between the local houses. This would make your experience a little more private and secluded. The only set back is here there are no bathrooms and if necessary, one would have to take a short walk to get to one.
• Hanama Bay:  HanamaBayis a must do on the island. Here you can get up close and personal with natural coral and the tropical fish that go along with it. Item of note: I loved this experience and at the same time was a little saddened by it. The coral has definitely been damaged over the years. Expecting a flourish of color and diversity in plant life and fish, I found the coral to look abandoned and the fish population low and sparing. So although I couldn’t recommend passing this experience up – I would strongly urge that we pay attention to the presentation (required before being allowed on the beach) and that we respect nature and be careful not to further damage the habitat.

Nightlife:

I wouldn’t say that Hawaii is known for its nightlife. However the club scene is not bad. The main nightclub in Waikiki is Zanzibar and if there are others, I have not yet been exposed to them. I did notice a Senior Frog and I have heard about additional clubs in the downtown area that the locals go to.  But for a short visit – Zanzibar will suffice. I enjoyed the music and the atmosphere and recommend it for the week-long tourist.

I have about 8 more months left to explore Hawaii (my contract at the hospital is scheduled to end in December 2012) and plan to do just that – continue to explore. As I sit in my condo on the 32^nd floor I hear the fireworks booming outside my window (every Friday – Waikiki sets off fireworks  simply for our enjoyment), I contemplate what experiences I want to take advantage of next. I have a few friends and family planning to visit this summer and later in the fall and want to save some activities to share with them. I am sure there is some horseback riding, hiking, parasailing and paddle boarding in my future. I hope everyone gets to experience the spirit of Aloha sometime in their lives and recommend vacationing in paradise!

Mahalo!

This isn’t just a landscape of barren dunes, there are thrilling and dramatic things to witness and take part in. Taking in the glorious colours of a sunrise or sunset can be made easier on top of a camel or a horse. Put the horse through its paces and get it into a canter, feeling the refreshing wind in your hair, or choose a camel for a more sedate experience atop a ‘ship of the desert’.

Another option is falconry. Witness magnificent birds of prey in action and enjoy learning from an expert who is on hand to share knowledge about the various breeds and characteristics. Get closer to the birds and take those important photographs for friends and family.

For adrenaline junkies, this is also a lovely place to test out the sand dunes for some ultimate adventures. Try sand boarding by strapping on the board and surfing down the steep dunes to the valley floor. Alternatively, experience dune driving in luxury four wheel drive vehicles that take predefined routes to avoid disrupting the wildlife.

These adventures often end with a private Bedouin dinner where you can enjoy the intimacy of a personalized meal and try local delicacies. Why not sample the fragrant shisha pipe and watch the galaxy of stars blanket the sky?

Dubai is not just a sea of shopping malls and skyscrapers but rather offers a world outside the city – the mystical Arabian Desert.

Local Attractions & Activities:

If you’re looking to discover first hand the melting pot of cultural diversity that Bristol is celebrated for, look no further than St Pauls Carnival, a yearly African-Caribbean festival usually held on the first Saturday in July. If you’re in the neighbourhood, you can’t afford to miss the dazzling masquerade procession, combining elaborate and colourful costumes, dancers and floats designed and made by local schools and volunteers. Wherever you go there will be music, from the strategically placed stages boasting local and big name performers, to the huge sound systems that the locals set up in their front gardens, selling beers, soft drinks and delicious home made jerk chicken.

Not even a few weeks later, just when you feel like you’ve actually recovered from the carnival,  the Bristol Harbour Festival is underway, another annual event that starts on the waterfront and stretches out across other parts of central Bristol. Hugely popular with Bristolians and out-of-towners alike, the festival regularly attracts over 250,000 people a year and combines live music, street performances, dance troupes, and a vast array of market & food stalls serving dishes from every small corner of the globe. Bristol encompasses a myriad of events, both big and small, making listing all of them a near impossibility. Other festivals worth checking out include the Bristol Balloon Fiesta (Pictured top left), BrisFest and The Bristol Folk Festival.

Museum and art buffs can enjoy quieter surroundings at the multitude of free exhibitions open to them, including the Arnolfini, the Bristol City Museum and Art Gallery (where previous exhibits have included work from the world famous, Bristol-born artist Banksy) and the M-Shed, which hosts a collection of artefacts from the city’s past and present.

Bristol is a historic gem nestled in the rolling hills of the South West of England. One of its most famous landmarks, the world renowned Clifton Suspension Bridge was designed by the great Victorian engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel and completed in 1864. Providing spectacular views over the cliffs of the Avon Gorge, this unique architectural wonder draws thousands of visitors each year and costs nothing to stroll across and enjoy the breathtaking views.

Quirky Walking Tours:

 Bristol is certainly big enough to get your teeth into, but not nearly as overwhelming as other major English cities. Walking tours are a great way to see the city up close and personal, allowing you to really explore a district steeped in history. For those who are looking for a highly unusual way to spend the day, Arnos Vale Cemetery is a vast and beautiful site just a short bus ride from the train station, steeped in local history and positively teaming with wildlife. Entry to the cemetery is free and Heritage and Wildlife tours can be booked for a small fee. For those who might not know, Bristol is synonymous with pirates and the Bristol Pirate Walk is a fun and educational tour explaining everything you could ever want to know about the city’s infamous maritime history, including its part in the slave trade and how it’s the birthplace of the notorious pirate, Blackbeard…Aspiring photographers take note – the Bristol Photography Walk aims to unravel the mysteries of your digital camera, whilst appreciating the natural and man made aesthetics that the city has to offer.

Shopping Destinations:

A bustling local community comes out in droves to visit Gloucester Road, a lengthy thoroughfare that boasts the UK’s largest string of independent retailers. Along this lively street, trendy cafe’s and restaurants serve everything from homemade cakes to Kangaroo burgers, whilst a wide selection of original and vintage clothing, music and homeware shops make Gloucester Road an essential place to visit.

Established in 1743, St Nicholas Market was named as one of the 10 best markets in the UK by The Guardian in 2010. The beautiful Georgian architecture encompasses a huge variety of foods from around the world and it houses a vast selection of stalls selling unique clothing and gifts. Anyone wanting some truly unique souvenirs and gifts should visit Beast Clothing in the middle of the market, which offers plenty of educational apparel for those wishing to study the more choice phrases of the local dialect.
For a more contemporary shopping experience, Cabot Circus provides a string of well known brands and restaurants, housing over 120 shops including the super fashionable Harvey Nichols department store, where even the smallest purchase will cost you an arm, a leg, and quite possibly that left kidney you were saving… A relatively new addition to central Bristol, this huge complex was opened in 2008 and curious locals flocked under its domed roof to sample some of the finer things in life.

Where to Stay:

At The Full Moon and Attic Bar Backpacker Hotel prices start from as little as £10.00 a night (sharing) in this eco-friendly backpacker’s hotel. Nestled between central Bristol and the lively area of Stokes Croft, the Full Moon is a stone’s throw away from Bristol Bus Station with links to and from the airport. It has everything required for an easy life onsite, including Wi-Fi throughout, a restaurant with a great selection of local and organic foods, a laundry service and for music lovers, the fully licensed Attic Bar sits just opposite, regularly hosting great live bands and DJ’s.

Party animals looking for somewhere in the middle of the action can find comfort at the Rock and Bowl Motel. This 1930’s building sits on the corner of one of Bristol’s graffiti hotspots and encompasses trendy bowling & karaoke bar, The Lanes. Guests staying here can enjoy all the basic amenities the Rock and Bowl Motel has to offer, including free Wi-Fi and a large communal kitchen, plus discounted prices on mouth-watering pizzas, beers, bowling and karaoke at The Lanes. Those looking for an early night however, beware, as the motel is right next to a series of popular nightclubs that can get pretty noisy at the weekend; to counteract this, the kind folks at the reception desk hand out free ear plugs to all guests.

For more information on what to see and do in Bristol, check out their official website at visitbristol.co.uk

Pedestrian walkways in Sultanhamet and along Istiklal Caddesi certainly make for decent food and good people watching. Take a turn into a narrow cobblestone and crumbling path, and you are destined for adventure. Buzzing teahouses full of smoke, cheap restaurants with cuisine that makes your mouth burst into drool, and colorful apartment windows open to the streets below all make you feel even more entrenched in Turkish culture. Getting lost in Istanbul’s back-alleys is the best way to spend your time here.

Suggested Walking Tour:

There is certainly no better way to explore Istanbul than by foot. Without bipedalism, surely most of the secrecies would be missed. Many foreigners stay in charming Sultanhamet, so this walking trek will begin here, on the eastern side of the Golden Horn. Starting your morning in the wondrous architecture of the Blue Mosque is a marvelous thought to awaken to. The Blue Mosque can be entered free of charge, but tourists must use a specific entrance. Surprisingly women do not need to cover their hair in the mosque; secular Istanbul at its finest. Listen to the call to prayer, glance but don’t glare at those in worship, and be mesmerized by the beautiful dome above.

After this architectural marvel one may continue along Divian Yolu Caddesi, the street in which the tram runs, towards the Grand Bazaar. You will pass carpets, tiles, and many other tourist trinkets along this walk. Because there is a great deal of competition in this area, you can get some good deals on souvenirs. Once you hit Cemberlitas (the tram stop) make a right and pass the large tower, a mosque, and head toward the bustle of the Grand Bazaar. One must experience this superior market, but beware of luring businessmen and outrageous prices. The best deals can be found after your stroll through as you exit and explore the winding streets surrounding. A few minutes in the bazaar will likely be enough, as it is quite overwhelming. Be sure to get lost for a while just outside its gates, where you will be surrounded by Turkish people drinking tea, also in search of great prices. You can find everything you need along these streets from scarves, to silverware, and jewelry, all for about one fourth of the price inside the Grand Bazaar. Don’t load yourselves too heavy, as we have a day of walking planned.

Once you have tired of the busy marketplace, continue back to Cemberlitas Caddesi for lunch. Just across from the tram stop is a brightly lit falafel sign. Inside this restaurant are fair prices, as well as a Turkish version of falafel that I really enjoy. The popular lunch joint is filled with both Turkish people and tourists, for it has everything including stews, kebabs, and baklava. This is one of my favorite lunch stops in Istanbul, although located in a commonly crossed location. I haven’t gotten you completely lost in backstreets yet.

After lunch make a left from the main road onto Bab-I Ali Caddesi and head towards the Bosphorus. You will quickly leave behind the tourist path and wind up in a Turkish world, passing through the part of town where Turks go to buy stationary and art supplies. Continue along this way and cross the Galata Bridge where you can peer into the lives of boisterous male fisherman lining the sea.

Once in Karakoy (just across the bridge) you can continue along the main road, or make a quick right and walk along the Bosphorus. Soon you will pass Karakoy Gulluoglu, the most popular baklava patisserie (so it seems to me!) in Istanbul. Wander in to discover the many baklava flavors they offer here, from pistachio to chocolate. Don’t forget your Turkish cay, or tea, which is served in a tiny hourglass with sugar cubes and a miniature spoon. There is hardly a more Turkish spot than this popular baklava place, always crowded with people.

Next walk back up to the main street where the tram passes. After reaching the Karabas Mosque at Tophane, make a left and begin heading up-hill towards Istiklal Caddesi. You will pass art galleries, vintage clothing boutiques, and of course a few cafés before reaching the trendiest part of Istanbul where all of the upscale stores lie. Make sure you keep up your pace with the vigor of the Turks filling the street. This is the one place in Turkey where you need not be fearful of cars. While cars aren’t supposed to drive along this busy metropolis, you will likely hear some horns nonetheless. Again get lost in the backstreets surrounding Istiklal Caddesi, which contain many of the most interesting bars and cafes in town.

You will quickly learn that streets in Istanbul are not well marked, so landmarks will better help you in navigation. My favorite café for mid-afternoon snacking is located off of the side street where Pandora books lies. You will pass these two bookstores, one with English titles, and continue until you reach the end. Make a right, and you will soon see a café called Klemuri with the slogan, “think global eat local!” printed outside. This brilliant, modern Turkish café has a very European feel. Prices are modest and the atmosphere is dainty and quiet. Get the red pepper pecan spread, the best snack I’ve been served in Turkey.

To find another backstreet gem perfect for dinner, walk towards the large mall and make a right passing the Gap. On the third block down and just after Beatles café on your left side, you will see a small restaurant where you can peer through the glass at the stews, veggies, and rices inside. The food here is fantastic, and I have yet to eat a cheaper meal. A drink, entrée, rice, and dessert will cost you about 5,00 Turkish Lira, or 3.00 US dollars. The place will be packed with Turkish men, arm-deep in a large bucket of bread. As always, bread comes free with your meal. In this bufe, the bread is waiting for you on the table. For an authentic experience, I believe you will appreciate this hole-in-the wall supper as much as I do.

To end your evening around Istiklal Caddesi, wander into one of the bars or nargile (hookah) cafes lining these backstreets. If you haven’t yet, certainly order a cay after dinner, finishing your meal just as Turkish do. Other beverage options include a shot of Turkish coffee, an Efes beer, or for something harder, top the evening off with a glass of raki. Serefe!

Before moving to India for 4 months, I had already seen and heard lots about Holi, and I was ecstatic to find out that I’d be here during the festival. You’ve all seen the photos of deranged mobs lobbing multihued powder at each other, shooting streams of color out of water canons, and just generally being boisterous and rowdy. To my complete satisfaction, I was exposed to it all!

I had decided to meet up with some fellow volunteers in Jaipur for the occasion. Rajasthan had a reputation of being a lively and festive place during Holi, so Jaipur, as its capital, was a logical choice. Plus there would be plenty to see and do once the celebrations died down.

A couple weeks prior, back in Delhi, I was treated to a sample of what was to come. Walking down a residential street with a couple friends, I was struck hard in the upper arm by a perfectly aimed water balloon, completely soaking the side of my shirt. A flurry of movement in the periphery of my vision told me it was a group of mischievous boys who had been laying in wait for some unsuspecting dope to walk by. That dope had been me.

So when I got to Jaipur, I was ready for stealth guerrilla tactics, on alert for any suspect activity in windows, on balconies, and behind cars. Unfortunately, by the time Holi rolled around, the game had changed completely. It was all-out open warfare.

We started small, walking around the residential neighborhood surrounding our hotel. There in the driveway of their apartment complex, was a small family who good-naturedly explained and demonstrated the different methods of attack. They also let us sample some homemade sweets that are traditionally eaten on Holi, which were absolutely delicious.

Filled with a false sense of confidence, armed with our newly attained knowledge and experience, we strode bravely down the road. In about two minutes, we encountered what was to be the bane of our neighborhood tour: a roaming pack of young men on motorcycles who were cruising the streets looking for victims. The sight of 4 white women was too much for any of them to resist. Time and again, they would pull a giant U-turn, fling their legs over their seats, and ambush us with powder, smearing our faces and necks until we begged for mercy. If we were lucky, they were gentle and friendly enough to let us smear them back, but that was more the exception than the rule. More often than not, it was practically a dog pile with us at the bottom, finally emerging bedraggled and splashed with a new hue each time.

By the end of our tour, I was satisfactorily Jackson Pollock-ed and exhausted. I sort of felt like the Lost Boys in Hook after their epic food fight, but in my case the colors stained my skin pink for the next few days. As if I didn’t already stand out enough! But all in all, it was an amazing experience. I’m glad I wasn’t scared off by my colleagues’ warnings! Although, I didn’t try the bhang. I’ll save that for round two!

You might not believe this, but in the U.S. I am actually quite a competent and assertive driver.  After all, I’m from San Francisco with its steep hills and Cable Cars to maneuver around. It’s no walk in the park for drivers.  Yet the shear thought of piloting an automobile in Italy sends chills up and down my spine.  Italians get into their cars and behave as if suddenly a magic force field surrounds them and they are safe to use their vehicles as personal bumper cars.  And not only do people in Italy drive at incredibly high speeds, they’ve apparently never heard of the “three car-length rule” – coming up behind you and riding your tail, high beams flashing and scaring the living daytime running lights out of you!

I think it takes nerves of steel and great intestinal fortitude to venture out onto the Autostrada…or even more terrifying….the streets of Rome!  My friend Linda and her husband Steve are owners of The Beehive Hotel in central Rome and have lived in the city for twelve years.  I am in complete awe of Linda and her motoring prowess and guts as she causally and confidently scoots her way around the hazardous streets like a true native: Nerves of steel, I tell you, nerves of steel.

….And then there was none: Parking in Italy

Even in my small and sedate hill town in the countryside, free parking is at a premium, but a parking space in Rome?  Forget about it!  Humorist Bill Bryson, in his book Neither Here Nor There: Travels in Europe writes about the craziness of parking in this country: “Romans park their cars the way I would park if I had just spilled a beaker of hydrochloric acid on my lap.”

My friend snapped this photo of a parking predicament we encountered on an afternoon stroll.  What you don’t see in the frame is another vehicle blocking the car’s passenger door as well.  From what I could surmise, the owner of the barricaded car would need to crawl through the trunk, climb over the back seat and squeeze between the gear shift to wriggle into the driver’s seat.  I wonder if this is some twisted Italian version of the game “chicken” (gioco del pollo) – who can park in this spot longest without flinching?  Too bad we’ll never know how this showdown played out – perhaps these cars are right where they left them.

So, in answer to the question, “Should I rent a car and drive in Italy”?  Sure, why not?  If 60 million Italians can do it, why can’t you?  Happy motoring!

In the late 19th century, an epidemic nearly depleted the wildebeest population in the Serengeti. After veterinarians found an inoculation for the disease, the wildebeest population slowly rehabilitated. By the early 1960s, the population boomed, becoming too large for the Serengeti’s grasslands to sustain. Subsequently, the herds had to migrate to find reliable grazing lands. They began moving north, eating their way from the Serengeti, in Tanzania, to the Masai Mara, in Kenya, and back around to Serengeti. This created a circular grazing pattern now referred to as the Great Migration. Other herbivores, including zebras and Thompson gazelles, have followed suit.

For six months of the year, few herbivores can be spotted in the Masai Mara Reserve. To those on safari, this might not sound devastating; most people come to see the lions and the cheetahs, not the wildebeests, which are truly the ugliest creatures I’ve ever seen. But without much hunting during those months, predators have a rough time, and if you go to the Mara during the months without the prey, you’re likely to be disappointed.

Although we’d timed our trip to see the Great Migration in the Masai Mara, we almost missed it. In recent years, due to water scarcity and climate changes, the Migration has become less predictable. The Migration happened later this year, and it wasn’t until we were Mara-bound that we heard the good news– the Migration had begun.

The Migration happens in waves. First the zebras, eating the longer grasses, cross into the Mara, then the wildebeests, and finally the gazelles. By the time we arrived in the Masai Mara, the wildebeests were making their way across the reserve.

We heard the wildebeests before we saw them. They croaked like frogs, emitting ribbit-like groans that sounded lazy and sad. Our guide explained that, although each ribbit sounded equally discordant to me, no two wildebeest calls sounded the same. This was a useful tactic for mothers and children traveling together–a call from a lost child sounded distinct against similar cries.

When we finally saw the herds, the sight was indescribable. The number of wildebeests was simply overwhelming. As I sat there watching them, I tried to think of some word, some detail that could capture the magnitude of the sight before me. They were still ugly, there was no salvation for those beasts, and yet the sheer volume of them made them extraordinary and almost beautiful.

Within the masses of wildebeests, we occasionally saw a group of zebras.

Although most zebras entered the Mara before the wildebeests, cashing in on the prime grass, other zebras preferred to stay behind. Wildebeests have an excellent sense of smell but poor eyesight. Conversely, zebras’ eyesight is strong, but their sense of smell is weak. It’s the perfect symbiotic relationship, one of many that we saw in the bush.

Our guide told us to look closely at the adult zebras’ stomachs. The majority of them had swollen, lumpy stomachs that fell to the right. My mother, more familiar with pregnancy than I, observed that they were pregnant. Zebras gestate for an entire year, and the migratory period in the Mara lines up with the birthing season. Nearly all the female zebras were about to burst.

By the next day, the herd had advanced to the river crossing. At first, the herd’s movement seemed to be a contained chaos, like people pouring out of a building during a fire drill.

The wildebeests charged through the river rhythmically, continuously without stopping. Then, out of nowhere, one of the wildebeests stopped. The surrounding herd then stopped as well, and they began galloping back to where they’d already crossed. Mid-river, they encountered other wildebeests crossing from the other side, resulting in a gridlock. We watched as they ran back and forth across the river, with little ascertainable logic, but our guide explained that mothers often lost their children and would go back to search for them. The confusion and deliberation offered predators the perfect opportunity for lunch.

A kill was a common request among tourists, especially during the migration period when the prey vastly outnumbered the predators. When we arrived in Kenya, I expected, partially dreaded, seeing an animal devoured. I’d assumed that the moment a predator came into sight the prey were finished. But nature, it turned out, was much slower and fairer than I’d envisioned. Although speedy, predators such as lions, cheetahs, and leopards could only sprint short distances and were easily fatigued. Instead of chasing wildly into a pack of gazelles, the predators targeted a single animal among the herd, either the young or the injured. They’d wait until the prey came close enough, which rarely happened. The prey, either from the lion’s smell or the mass of jeeps that surrounded them (though the park tried to minimize the tourists’ impact on the land, the prey were aware of the jeeps and knew what a semicircle of vehicles meant– imminent danger), stood immobilized, ears perched ready to sprint to safety.

The sight never ceased to confound me. If I knew a predator was nearby, I would have hightailed it out of there, but the prey just waited, frozen with anticipation. The strategy evidentially worked, because despite the numerous hunts we’d witnessed, we’d yet to see a kill.

But unlike normal hunting expeditions, during the Migration, the lion didn’t target a single prey. Instead, she waited at a river crossing for the herds to descend into the river. When the herd was within her grasp, she pounced ferociously, anticipating that one of the wildebeests would be trampled by the other stampeding wildebeests and slip down the bank into her open maw.

As the wildebeests wildly leapt up and down the banks of the river, we watched a lion stalk their movement.

The lion inched slowly towards the herd, camouflaged by the foliage. Suddenly, a frantic ribbit echoed around us and the wildebeests ran back up the bank. One of them had seen the lion.

The lion inched away from the crossing, returning again to her hiding place. She waited a few minutes until a new, unknowing herd approached. The wildebeests began charging wildly down the river and the lion wasted no time to descend upon them.

It happened so quickly, we barely saw her pounce. She was on top of the wildebeest, wrapping her mouth around its neck. Lions suffocate their prey. She held her mouth steady around the wildebeest’s neck and we watched as the prey went from stirring wildly beneath her grip, to sporadically spasming, to completely still. Success. A meal for her pack.

After the kill was complete, the lion took a moment to survey the area. The land was still. The wildebeests had disappeared completely; it was difficult to believe that only moments before hundreds of them had been fleeing the area. But the lioness wasn’t looking for wildebeests. Often, hyenas wait in the periphery, hoping to either overpower the lone hunting cat or to spy her hiding place for her kill and steal it while the lion ran back to find her pack. With no hyenas in sight, the lion began the laborious process of dragging the wildebeest into the bushes.

She stopped periodically to rest, and we could see browning blood in the fur around her mouth as she panted, trying desperately to catch her breath.

We watched the lion until she disappeared behind the bushes, and both she and the carcass were obscured in the leafage. That was our last sight of the Great Migration. Although the animals continued their circular journey towards Tanzania, we had to return to our camp and head back to Nairobi.