Back-Street Walking Tour of Istanbul

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I would guess that most who stride through Istanbul on their travels are quickly awe-struck by the historic architecture, markets, and bustle along the Marmara Sea. That Istanbul is quite an enchanting city is obvious to most who enter. While the streets most traveled are very vibrant, I am convinced that the brightest gems in […]

Eating Your Way Through Budapest’s Bakeries

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There are a million different reasons to travel to Budapest. Its stunning nineteenth century architecture, the fascinating and complex history that unravels in a lazy walk across its pockmarked core, and the picturesque beauty of a capital spanning the Danube all recommend Budapest as a worthwhile destination. However, for me, the bakeries (or cukrászdak) should […]

Beli Manastir, Croatia: Lost Language

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It was day seven.  Day seven of the heat.  Day seven of no air conditioning.  Day seven of constant sweating, of feeling the sticky liquid between my breasts.  Seven days of no wind.  Seven days of inhaling the sour stench of chicken shit and burning trash.  The night gave me the gift of seven more […]